Buca di Beppo

Yes, it's a chain, and yes, it's really loud and the food is rather bland. That said, if you have picky childish palates to please and want to go somewhere where every time your kid sneezes, other diners don't turn their heads, this is the place. (We doubt other diners would be able to hear a fire engine in the middle of the dining room.)

Food at Buca di Beppo is served family style (no kids' menu), and in astonishingly large portions. We looked on in awe as gargantuan platters of antipasti arrived at neighboring tables. The Pizza Margherita ($13.95), served Neapolitan-style on a 2-foot-long slab, was a hit with our resident pizza purist. Pastas tend toward the basic: spaghetti aglio ogio, linguine clam sauce, ravioli al pomodoro. If you must add another color to go with all that red, green beans with olive oil and lemon ($7.45) are crisp and tasty.

Expect long waits on Friday and Saturday nights. If you can't wait, food is available for takeout (give the kitchen 20 to 30 minutes' notice.) Although this is a kid-friendly restaurant, don't count on crayons - if you need them, pack your own. Fine dining this isn't, but if you want a no-fuss, no-attitude meal out with the kids in surroundings busy enough to keep them distracted, this is the place, with locations all over the Southland.