Little Tokyo050

One of the gems of downtown Los Angeles; a day in Little Tokyo will remind residents of how wonderful their city is, and visitors will feel as though they've uncovered a treasure.

The neighborhood is anchored at the southern end by Noguchi Plaza, in front of the Japanese American Cultural and Community Center. The treeless Plaza can seem a bit barren when the Santa Ana winds are blowing, but you have to remember that in Japanese culture eveything symbolizes a larger truth, and the empty expanse of the Plaza, dominated by the two huge rock-like Isamu Noguchi sculptures is a reflection of the difficult history of the Japanese people in America. And, if you visit the Plaza during seasonal celebrations or cultural festivals, you'll recognize that, ultimately, the Japanese-American experience has been triumphant.

Even if there is nothing special going on, GO IN. Just inside the front door is the tempting, but quite pricey, Center Gift Shop, full of gorgeous jewelry, textiles, porcelain, and kites. This is not a place for young children, and it is not the place to buy your souvenirs for the day, but it's a wonderful stop for unique gifts and decorative arts. Open Tue-Fri 12n-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-4pm; closed Mondays.

To see one of the great treats of Little Tokyo, go down to the lower level in the elevator, and follow the signs to the James Irvine Garden. Children will shriek with delight at discovering this 'secret garden', and you will be amazed at finding such a peaceful place in the middle of the big city.

Little Tokyo has many unique shops and restaurants. On 2nd Street, stop at Firefly T-Shirt Designs and Rafu Bussan, Inc, for Japanese-designed clothing, housewares, dolls and toys and candy. Japanese Village Plaza is a pedestrian mall connecting 2nd Street to 1st Street, full of restaurants, shops, and sunny places to sit, rest, and watch the people go by. Shabu-Shabu House, at 127 Japanese Village Plaza is a popular, inexpensive restaurant where patrons sit at a counter and eat enormous bowls of noodles. Cash only, open daily except Mondays, 11:30am-2:3Opm and 5:30pm-10pm.

For dessert, try the Mikawaya Sweet Shop, at 118 Japanese Village Plaza. The pastries are colorful and pretty to look at, but may taste strange to younger children; you might want to stick with the ice cream. Open daily 10am-5pm. Must-stop shopping on 1st Street: S. K. Uyeda Department Store, for kimonos, T-shirts, futons and pillows, and Bun-ka Do, for Japanese calendars and stationery, housewares, toys and party favors.

Two terrific museums anchor Little Tokyo at the northern end, The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA, and the Japanese American National Museum. Both are worth a visit, but the latter is more appealing and appropriate for younger children. On that eastern end of Little Tokyo, at the corner of Alameda and 1st, is - surprisingly - one of the great Mexican fast food restaurants in Los Angeles, Senor Fish. For some ceviche, and a break from Japanese culture, try it.

Do make your way west across San Pedro Street to Ellison S. Onizuka Street a pedestrian mall with more shops and restaurants. Children will be interested in the statue of the Space Shuttle Challenger in the mall's center, honoring the Japanese-American astronaut Onizuka, who died in the 1986 shuttle explosion. On the second level of Weller Court, a sunny seating area just off the mall, follow your nose to the wonderful Curry House, an extremely child-friendly, yet very Japanese restaurant. Climb on up to the third level and follow the signs to the New Otani Hotel & Garden. The two-level, water-filled garden is open to the public, and is yet another delightful treasure in Little Tokyo.

There are public bathrooms in the museums and restaurants of course, but for just-strollers, try the bathrooms at the New Otani Hotel, just inside the doors off the Garden, and/or the bathrooms on the lower level of the JACCC.